走在紐約的電影世界
Film Travel at New York City

Film Travel 是非常好玩的旅遊玩意,意思是在旅遊地點內尋找與電影相關的實景場地,甚至親身參與,回憶幕幕場景。如果你像筆者般是個電影迷,來紐約玩一玩電影旅遊就最適合不過,因為好萊塢電影大多在紐約取景,不同年代的不同經典,都曾在這裏誕生。

You may not have been to New York City before, but you may feel like you already know the city. That’s because New York City’s many locations – from the Brooklyn Bridge to Chinatown — are the most popular settings for many American films. Visiting these locations is what Film Travel is all about.


《天煞:地球反擊戰》
“Independence Day”

走在布魯克林橋上

晨早,我穿起舒適的跑步鞋,從下塌的地區布魯克林作起點,預計慢慢用雙腳從曼哈頓南走到北,細味大蘋果都市的經典電影。甚麼是經典?當然因人而異,但它一定能夠經得起歲月的洗刷,任何時代都會有人回味的便是傳奇。我走進布區與曼哈頓連接的是布魯克林橋,它是現時眾多連接橋中的老大哥,在1883竣工的時候是全世界上最長、也是第一座使用鋼鐵製成的懸索橋樑,工程之浩大、構思的大膽、技術的新穎,在當時來說都是頂尖的。

從哥德式橋塔散射出來、吊起橫亙東河上長長橋身的網狀鋼索,非常漂亮,隨着步伐向前行,被鋼索織成的網所包圍著的感覺很美,支持着吊橋的鋼索像人體血管一樣縱橫交錯,張結有力,網眼也把曼哈頓的天空切成不同形狀的方塊。走上布橋,只消45分鐘便能慢步跨過東河,沿途由布區方向望到曼市的金融中心地帶,是無數電影介紹紐約市的指定畫面,看着這個畫面,你會想到2000年的美劇《色慾都市》?還是災難片之王《明日之後》、《天煞:地球反擊戰》?

Waking up in Brooklyn, I lace up a pair of running shoes in preparation for a leisurely walk up Manhattan. Brooklyn and Manhattan are connected by the Brooklyn Bridge. At the time of its construction, it was the longest in the world. From the Brooklyn side of the bridge, it takes 45 minutes to cross over the East River to Manhattan’s financial district. This view of lower Manhattan from Brooklyn is the scene-setting shot for many a movie set in the Big Apple, including “Sex and the City”, “The Day After Tomorrow”, and “Independence Day”.

1

步過布魯克林大橋時,獨有的網眼把曼哈頓克天空切成細塊,是非常漂亮的幾何學形狀。
Walking across the Brooklyn Bridge, the cables create a beautiful pattern across the sky.

2

從布橋上島瞰曼哈頓,是最無數電影都採用的最美角度畫面。
The view of Manhattan from the Brooklyn Bridge is one of the most beautiful and iconic images of the city in film.


22

《秋天的童話》
“An Autumn’s Tale”

追尋船頭尺的華埠

橋連接曼哈頓下城,從橋上走回地面的時候,已到達80年代港產片神級電影《秋天的童話》末段,船頭尺追趕十三妹後、垂頭喪氣地回家的場景就是布橋出入口。《秋》片的年代,香港電影正值巔峰,賭片、警察、黑社會題材此起彼落,忽然一齣愛情小品,配合移民風潮,到了今日,它仍是女主角鍾楚紅的最愛。

下了橋先經過影響世界經濟的短短華爾街,沒有看過邁克爾道格拉斯的《華爾街》或萬人迷狄卡比奧的《華爾街狼人》?不緊要,摸摸那頭代表永遠升市的大銅牛之後,很快便會遇上船頭尺居住的紐約唐人街,它是全美最大華埠,看着一眾港式茶餐廳、雜貨店、繁體中文字、廣東話,真令我的心暖和起來。走進劇中經常出現的宰也街(Doyers Street),戲中的情節更活靈活現湧進眼簾。尤其是船頭尺生日派對當晚,中國同學會夜出打架,便是在這裏拍攝。

我走進茶餐廳,說廣東話的侍應替我點了個餐蛋麵早餐。據說船頭尺替十三妹叫 「雙春治」的茶餐廳,已隨着紐約市租金上漲而不知所踪,但這裏的氣味仍是沒有改變,唯一不同的是眼前的華埠,比拍片的時候整潔了很多。

At the end of the 80’s Hong Kong classic, “An Autumn’s Tale”, when Chow Yun-fat returns home dejected from chasing Cherie Chung, the scene is the entrance to the Brooklyn Bridge. On the Manhattan side of the bridge is the financial district, the setting for Michael Douglas in “Wall Street” and Leonardo DiCaprio in “The Wolf of Wall Street”. Chinatown, the largest in America, is not far from here. I walked along Doyers Street looking in vain for the cafe where Chow ordered a double egg sandwich for Chung, but the vibe remains.

6

宰也街就是《秋天的童話》內出現最多的街道,記得有哪幾幕嗎?
Doyers Street is the street that appears most often in “An Autumn’s Tale”. Remember the scenes?

4

紐約華埠是全美最大唐人街,所有在紐約製作的華人電影,都離不開它的踪影。
New York’s Chinatown is America’s largest, and is a fixture in films with Chinese people.


21

《教父》
“The Godfather”

闖進教父的地盤

由唐人街往北走,街道的華人餐廳漸漸轉換成「Ristorante」字眼,店子亦開始掛着紅白綠旗幟,這裏就是紐約著名的小意大利區。我找了間咖啡店,享受一個户外的Espresso作小休,畢竟由布魯克林行過來已 2 個小時。

紐約及小意大利區向來都是美國黑幫片的重要舞台,當中的必然主角是馬龍白蘭度、阿爾柏仙奴及羅伯特德尼羅合力打造的70年代黑幫電影之王:《教父》1、2 集。那些紅磚屋建築群固然是電影鏡頭下經常出現的畫面,不過戲中有兩個場地叫我印象很深刻:Vazac’s Horseshoe Bar及St Patrick’s Old Cathedral。前者是阿爾柏仙奴飾演的法蘭克差點被殺的地方,場面夠暴力血腥。後者則是幢細小而恬靜的教堂,我安靜地坐在長椅上回憶法蘭克妹妹康妮的遺腹子受洗的片段。

電影中教父一脈來自意大利,就是在小意大利區落地生根,所以電影大部分都在這裏取景。《教父》的的鏡頭運用、畫面構圖、氣氛凝造、三部曲的結構仍然深深影響今日的電影製作,香港的《無間道》不就是它的影子嗎?

Heading north from Chinatown, the Chinese restaurants slowly give way to ones with the word “Ristorante” in them; this is New York’s Little Italy. I find a coffee shop and enjoy an espresso al fresco, a well-deserved break after the 3-hour walk from Brooklyn. Many American movies about the mafia are set in Little Italy. Arguably one of the most famous is “The Godfather” series starring Marlon Brando, Al Pacino and Robert De Niro.

《教父續集》,Robert De Niro常常穿梭於西城下區的紅磚建築。
In “The Godfather 2”, Robert De Niro is often seen among East Village’s red brick buildings.


23

《復仇者聯盟》
“The Avengers”

心臟地帶 42 街

在紐約閒逛其實挺賞心樂事的,靚衫靚鞋靚景,尤其是去到心臟地帶百老匯。忽然,數不清的數碼顯示屏充斥着整個天空,相信這是最常被攝入畫面的市景了:《鳥人》、《黑天鵝》、《穿Prada的惡魔》、《變形金剛》……心臟的核心,當然是觀看紐約夜景最好的地方帝國大廈,其頂樓觀景台是無數電影的舞台,舊有《金剛》,近的也有筆者近期至愛、由湯唯主演的《北京遇上西雅圖》,也是在此平台作結束呢。

繼續往北走到42街,全美國最漂亮、亦是全球最大的火車站,中央車站就在面前。很面善?當然,近代科幻片的新里程碑《復仇者聯盟 》之中,當天空被宇宙立方的力量開啟,聯盟各英雄與湧進地球的外星異物生死拼搏的地方,大量古典雕塑墮地的戰場,就是這個中央車站。車站外型如博物館般優美,古典氣息叫人心醉,設計得很似中世紀巴黎的歌劇院格調,標緻迷人,是紐約市內的現代主義風格建築林立中的小綠州洲。

走入車站大堂,最搶眼的是多到數不清班次的顯示表板(現在已經用了電子顯示),及資訊中心頂部,那估值1,000萬到2,000萬美元的貓眼石四面鐘。眼利的話,會發現《超人》、《蜘蛛俠》也曾在此出現過呢!

14b

Strolling through New York is a very enjoyable pasttime. There are so many beautiful places, people and things to see. On Broadway, in the heart of the city, one is suddenly bombarded with countless digital screens. This mesmerizing scene has featured in “Birdman”, “Black Swan”, “The Devil Wears Prada”, “Transformers”etc. In the midst of this, the Empire State Building rises high above the hustle and bustle. Its Observation Deck is recognizable from classics such as “King Kong” as well as the more recent hit starring Tang Wei, “Finding Mr. Right”.

Continuing north to 42nd Street, I arrive at Grand Central Station, the scene of an epic battle in “The Avengers”. Inspired by the Paris Opera House, America’s most beautiful train station is also the world’s largest. In the main concourse, the world’s largest four-faced Tiffany clock is valued at US$20 million.


manhattan-poster-artwork-woody-allen-diane-keaton-mariel-hemingway

《曼哈頓》
“Manhattan”

伍迪的電影海報

說到紐約取景的電影,怎少得伍迪艾倫?他終身的創作都離不開曼哈頓,成名作《安妮荷爾》、《曼哈頓》等,都以紐約市為背景舞台,展示出該地中產階級的思想與生活。所以我趕在黃昏前走到曼哈頓東邊,看皇后橋(The Ed Koch Queensboro Bridge)。如伍迪是你的至愛導演,一看這個角度便知道是他的電影《曼哈頓》的電影海報背景:片中男女主角在日落時分,坐在公園長椅上眺望皇后橋……

最後,我走入紐約市的地標中央公園,它是市內的綠肺,佔地340公頃,差不多18個維多利亞公園之大,這個有河、有湖、有大片草地的公園,又令你想起甚麼電影?《寶貝智多星2》?《虎膽龍威》?《紐約深秋》?《克藍瑪對克藍瑪》?

16a

One cannot write about movies set in New York without mentioning Woody Allen. His films depict the city’s middle class neuroses. So I quickly headed up to the Upper East Side before sunset to catch a glimpse of the Queensboro Bridge that was in the “Manhattan” poster. My walk ends at Central Park, the most filmed park — think “Home Alone 2”, “Autumn in New York”, “Kramer vs. Kramer” etc.


建議路線:

  1. 可由曼哈頓區的布魯克林橋開始。
  2. 由南到北走,可先以百老匯街為主軸,過了橫向的第八街後,再以第五大道北行。
  3. 最後以中央公園為終點。

Suggest Route:

  1. Start from Brooklyn Bridge in Manhattan.
  2. Walk up north along Broadway, passing 8th Street, then keep going north along 5th Avenue.
  3. Arrive at Central Park.

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