蛋糕女皇的甜點魔法
The Magic of Desserts Bonnae Gokson

 

祖父是永安百貨創辦人郭順,自小於城堡似的別墅成長,家裡三日一小宴、五日一盛宴,錦繡紗羅,吃穿用度都是一等一的高級貨,她的童年過得有如現代林黛玉。這天來到郭志怡的精品餐廳SEVVA、精緻餅店Ms B’s CAKERY、C’est La B,品嚐到的並不止是精緻美味的精品蛋糕,而是延綿一個世紀的優雅香江回憶!
Scion of the Wing On Department Stores founder, Bonnae Gokson grew up in the salubrious surroundings of a large villa in Stanley by the sea. Growing up in a warm and splendid home with formal and causal living areas which resembled a grand house in a movie set, Bonnae’s childhood memories are filled with big family parties; since then a passion for the art of gracious entertaining was instilled in her. A truly fabulous lifestyle! Bonnae has created her very own empire of desserts and hospitality in Hong Kong, comprising Ms B’s CAKERY, C’est La B café and SEVVA.


Ms B’s CAKERY的特色巧克力。
Inspired by ‘The Gem of One’s Life’, this special chocolate gift box from Ms B’s CAKERY is a wonderful gift.

童年品味的啟發

「自小父親訓練我對顏色的敏銳觸角 ,母親則愛收藏瓷器、玉器、布料等,姊姊Joyce Ma又是東方代表時尚的名字及Joyce Boutique 的創辦人。至今我仍惦記着當年佈置優雅的家,以及我喜歡的餐具,如以白玉或24K金等製造的精品收藏。」對於擺設與美食,郭志怡一定要最好的:「家人教曉我對生活有要求,一定要追求最頂級及質素最佳的。」

領先雜誌:談談您在童年時代的美食記憶好嗎?

郭志怡:我在赤柱海濱的別墅長大,記得小時候家廚為我們一家帶來許多精緻美食,我最愛吃清蒸海斑,廚子都形容我為一頭小貓,每次都將整條魚優雅地舔個乾乾淨淨!

領先雜誌:父親影響了您對色彩的感覺,母親則讓您愛上搜尋美麗的事物,那您的廚藝又是傳承於何處?

郭志怡:家中的美食是我成長中最重要的記憶之一。雖然家中上下有不少廚師,母親卻總會表現出她超卓的廚藝,我從她還有其他家廚身上,學到不少廚藝。

享受高級下午茶中美得教人捨不得一口咬下去的三文治。
Rainbow Club: Signature C’est La B Club Sandwich with a difference, French Ham, Cheese, Omelette, Avocado.

According to Bonnae, an artistic streak runs in the family; “Since I was young my father trained my aesthetic sensibility and my mother had a very fine taste. My elder sister, Joyce Ma was the doyenne of fashion and founder of the JOYCE BOUTIQUES fashion empire. This upbringing has had a lasting influence; My family taught me to pursue only the best in everything.”

So, it is clear that Bonnae’s artistic tastes are inherited from her family, but what can account for her undeniable culinary prowess? According to Bonnae; “Good food at home was one of the most important things to me when I was growing up. Although we had plenty of staff around, my mother was a very good cook and meticulous with everything. I learnt a lot from watching her cook, as well as from our cooks at home.” It seems as though Bonnae has been a gourmet and a connoisseur since childhood; “I grew up in a villa by the sea in Stanley. I can recall wonderful memories of lots of our home’s signature dishes made by our chefs. I was always quite spoiled with my little steamed coral garoupa.” In fact, the staff even used to call her “The little cat who’d finish a whole fish so elegantly!”


頂級瓷器來款客

SEVVA精品餐廳位於中環太子大廈頂層,露天雅座坐擁優美維港景致,從來都是政商名流匯聚,又或是貴婦享受下午茶的上佳地方。店內甜點選擇精緻而極具吸引力:可可雪芳海綿蛋糕、椰子法式杏仁餅配法國雲呢拿奶油、覆盆子和玫瑰花瓣長形泡芙、焦糖香脆蛋糕等,令人無法抗拒;鹹點方面,則有松露炒蛋吐司、 鵝肝慕絲及洋蔥果醬窩夫、法國火腿和布里芝士小麵包、煙薰鮭魚以及法式酸奶油配雞蛋土豆蓉。露天雅座擺放寬敞舒適的法式沙發,悠悠清風送爽,帶來非凡的體驗。連全球最大的健康保險集團保柏環球,也將SEVVA評選為全球最健康的9家餐廳之一;對此,Bonnae報以淡淡微笑:「很高興這些年的努力能得到認同。」

領先雜誌:您喜愛佈置一張完美的餐桌來品嚐一頓完美的晚餐,然而在追求完美與商業之間有沒有矛盾?

郭志怡:SEVVA就像我成長的地方,是我另一個家,我花心思留意每個細節,用不同的藝術品、鮮花、瓷器,精心粉飾這個「家」,讓它成為比本地任何酒店都更富有格調的地方。我選用法國利摩日古老瓷窯燒造的優質瓷器,雖然它們成本不菲、又易破損,但為了成就更完美的用餐體驗,這是值得的。」

SEVVA被喻為城中最優質的下午茶之一。
High tea at SEVVA described to be the very best in town!

Perched on the penthouse level of Prince’s Building, with an outdoor terrace and a stunning view of Victoria Harbour, SEVVA is the perfect place for a relaxing afternoon tea. The desserts are all about fantasy, with names like Coco Cake and The Original Caramel Crunch Cake. Other delicious dishes include truffle scrambled egg on toasted Poilâne, foie gras, onion confit & Poilâne sourdough toast… all of them eminently tempting. And on top of all this indulgence, SEVVA has just been named one of the healthiest restaurants in the world by the healthcare giant BUPA Global.

Bonnae loves to see a perfectly-set dinner table. SEVVA’s table settings have an effortless elegance. Bonnae explains;“SEVVA’s crockery displays a confident sense of style, I choose the best crockery from Limoges, which is synonymous with fine bone china.” But providing perfection is no mean feat. Surely there must be temptation to cut a few corners in the name of profit? Not according to Bonnae; “SEVVA is what it is because I am very hands-on in my business and always love to refresh the place, be it with new artworks, beautiful floral arrangements, new crockery, updated menus…” the list goes on. But after all her hard work,Bonnae is simply glad that her efforts get recognition.


SEVVA的大型吊燈原來是昔日羅馬英國大使館的古董。
A giant five-foot vintage Venini chandelier, one of a pair that graced the British Embassy in Rome in the 1950s.
金色飄飄蛋糕
Golden Flutters
餐廳全部用上法國利摩日古老瓷窑燒造的名貴瓷器。
The restaurant uses the fine crockery from Limoges.

創作迷人蛋糕的初心

再聽Bonnae介紹精緻奪目的蛋糕森林,感覺有如進入了繽紛奇幻的童話國度:以路易十四啟發的Le Louis和他的皇后瑪麗.安托瓦內特的 Marie-Antoinette’s Crave,以高高的綿花糖拼製,既酷炫又新奇;濃巧克力微鹹太妃糖疊上一片紅唇,即成Better than Sex;堆滿金幣與金箔的巧克力太妃糖蛋糕,取名為 Million Dollar Truffle Cafe;巧克力蝴蝶在色彩斑斕的蛋糕上飛舞的,是Butterfly Kisses;還有堆疊盈山的覆盆子蛋糕,名叫Memoirs of a Geisha⋯⋯

領先雜誌:誘人的蛋糕既像天使又像魔鬼,您是如何在美味與美藝上達致平衡?

郭志怡:我跟製作蛋糕的團隊必須要達致一種和諧,他們有着最出色的手藝,但不一定有我經歷過的精緻品味。我的哲學是所有蛋糕必須先有的質感跟美味,然後才是外觀上的美侖美奐。我們在接受預訂以前,總必提醒客人不要忘記創造一個迷人蛋糕的初心。

Bonnae’s cake designs are exquisite, elegant and nothing short of intoxicating: Le Louis is inspired by Louis XIV, the long-reigning monarch known as the ‘Sun King’. Continuing the Versaille-inspired theme, Marie Antoinette’s Crave is inspired by the French queen. The two cakes feature baby blue and pink cotton candy respectively. The ultimate in indulgence, Better than Sex features sumptuous dark chocolate filled with toffee. Each cake has an evocative name that requires little by way of elaboration; Butterfly Kisses, Memoir of a Geisha…

Ms B’s CAKERY cakes are created to tempt indulgence and be totally satisfying. This is not necessarily an easy thing to achieve. On her creative method, Bonnae says; “My process begins with creating a harmonious balance with my team. They all apply their skills and I input my ideas to make the finished product more polished and refined. My philosophy is that all cakes must be delicious in taste and texture first before we think about the looks. We always remind clients of our principles before a bespoke order is created.”

SEVVA
地址 Address: 香港中環遮打道10號 太子大廈25樓
25/F, Princes Building, 10 Chater Rd, Central, Hong Kong
電話 Tel: +852 2537 1388