西澳洲 瑪嘉烈河的酒莊群
Margaret River Vineyards

筆者對澳洲的葡萄酒感覺一般,總覺得它力量雖然足夠,但欠缺細緻的變化及分明的層次。但聽朋友說澳洲西南部的產酒區瑪嘉烈河(Margaret River)近年已做得很出色,值得留意。筆者相信有生命的葡萄酒是會思鄉的,離鄉別井,表現總會打個折扣。如果想嚐原汁風味,直接飛去澳洲試吧。
In comparison with Old World wines, New World wines are often considered lacking in complexity. However, in recent years, wines from southwestern Australia’s Margaret River have won much praise. What better way to get to the truth than to fly down under for a tasting tour.


來到大自然景色優美的地方,當然要坐在露天座位,感受西澳的溫暖陽光。 There’s nothing like sitting al fresco to enjoy the region’s beautiful weather and scenery.
來到大自然景色優美的地方,當然要坐在露天座位,感受西澳的溫暖陽光。 There’s nothing like sitting al fresco to enjoy the region’s beautiful weather and scenery.

從柏斯機場出來便直接南下向瑪嘉烈河出發,車程才兩個多小時,非常方便。河區是西澳洲的葡萄酒產區,由於面向印度洋,氣候相對穩定,土壤質素優秀,是塊豐饒的大地。

瑪嘉烈河的酒莊規模不像法國及美國般華麗及氣派,而是家族式的小本經營,酒莊並沒有碩大巍峨的主建築,反之而只是一些小木屋,但予人溫暖及親近之感。酒區主要聚集在洞穴大道(Caves Road)及畢素爾公路(Bussell Highway),公路兩旁種滿了高樹,甫進入酒區沿路絕不沉悶,處處都是綠油油的青蔥草地,有羊、牛及葡萄樹,色彩亮麗,美得如油畫。

Voyager Estate酒莊是區內大品牌,全線紅酒由入門到頂級的都可試喝。 The whole range of Voyager Estate’s wines are available for tasting.
Voyager Estate酒莊是區內大品牌,全線紅酒由入門到頂級的都可試喝。The whole range of Voyager Estate’s wines are available for tasting.

到達巿中心時值中午,剛好趕得及第一站:酒莊 Leeuwin Estate。還未吃飯便去試酒?我當然沒有那麼傻,一早已在香港預訂了在 Leeuwin 酒莊內吃午飯,因為其附設的餐廳是區內著名的食肆,無論食物質素及進食環境均享負盛名。

酒莊內滿是遊客,難得在免費試酒下,酒侍仍是表現落力。 Vineyards are a magnet for tourists, so free tastings are a thing of the past.
酒莊內滿是遊客,難得在免費試酒下,酒侍仍是表現落力。 Vineyards are a magnet for tourists, so free tastings are a thing of the past.
Voyager Estate酒莊的主建築是以荷蘭風格打造,在區內算是最具規模的建築了。 Voyager Estate’s architecture is Dutch in style, and is considered to be one of the finer examples of the region’s architecture.
Voyager Estate酒莊的主建築是以荷蘭風格打造,在區內算是最具規模的建築了。
Voyager Estate’s architecture is Dutch in style, and is considered to be one of the finer examples of the region’s architecture.

Margaret River’s vineyards are just over a 2-hour drive from Perth’s airport, not far from the Indian Ocean coast. The region’s vineyards lack the grand, impressive architecture of their counterparts in France or the United States. They’re warm and welcoming family-run, small businesses with small wooden lodges. Most of the vineyards can be found along Caves Road and Bussell Highway. On arrival, our first stop was Leeuwin Estate, just in time for lunch at its renowned restaurant.

到酒莊旅行,如能遇到收割前的日子,會看到整個葡萄園長滿圓鼓鼓的果實,非常美麗。 If you manage to visit vineyards just before the harvesting season, you will get a chance to see beautiful round, ripe grapes on the vines.
到酒莊旅行,如能遇到收割前的日子,會看到整個葡萄園長滿圓鼓鼓的果實,非常美麗。 If you manage to visit vineyards just before the harvesting season, you will get a chance to see beautiful round, ripe grapes on the vines.

酒莊的食肆水準一流,這個慢煮豬肚肉便是用了五小時預熱出來的。 A delicious slow-cooked pork belly.
酒莊的食肆水準一流,這個慢煮豬肚肉便是用了五小時預熱出來的。 A delicious slow-cooked pork belly.

酒與食物的結合

酒莊是幢兩層樓高的建築,窩在森林之中,被高大的樹林環抱著,空氣清新,處處翠綠,環境清幽而寧靜。餐廳在二樓,我選了室外半露天的位子,這種酒莊餐廳的優勢是主廚設計的食物,大都以配合自家釀造的葡萄酒為主,能達致高水平的味道結合,即所謂酒與食物的結合(Food and Wine Pairing),因此客人是先決定喝甚麼酒,之後才點甚麼菜色,極之有趣。

飛了大半個地球來到西澳,喝就要喝最好的,我先點了 Leeuwin 最頂級的霞多麗白酒(Art Series Chardonnay),這瓶白酒沒有太強烈的橡木氣味,絕不嗆鼻,有少許礦物味,還帶點西柚、熱帶水果甜,圓潤而有結構,容易入口,宜配澳洲生蠔。陽光照耀下,12隻生蠔配一瓶微涼的白酒,簡直是人生快事,剛踏入秋季的澳洲生蠔已十分肥美,口感豐腴、多肉,海水鹹味適中,帶點礦物金屬味,大大增強了霞多麗的層次感。

天氣微熱的中午,甚麼也不用說,先來個涼透心的白酒,就是人生一大快事。 There’s no better antidote to the scorching sun than chilled glass of white wine.
天氣微熱的中午,甚麼也不用說,先來個涼透心的白酒,就是人生一大快事。 There’s no better antidote to the scorching sun than chilled glass of white wine.

The restaurant is on the second floor of a two-story building, hidden amidst a forest. Here, the air is fresh, green is everywhere, and there’s a sense of serenity. The chef has created a menu where the dishes highlight the wines, so the diner first selects the wines and then the dishes are paired accordingly. Starting with their top white, the Art Series Chardonnay was perfectly paired with 12 oysters. Sitting on the sun-drenched terrace, this was the ultimate enjoyment.

微熱的中午,最好是暢飲涼涼的霞多麗白酒,別忘了配上澳洲生蠔。 Under the hot afternoon sun, there’s nothing more refreshing than an icy cold glass of white wine. Pairing it with Australian oysters.
微熱的中午,最好是暢飲涼涼的霞多麗白酒,別忘了配上澳洲生蠔。 Under the hot afternoon sun, there’s nothing more refreshing than an icy cold glass of white wine. Pairing it with Australian oysters.
在酒莊附設的餐廳用膳,要先選好喝甚麼酒,然後才用菜色來配合,因此出來的味道非常匹配。 Diners select their wines first, and then the dishes are paired accordingly.
在酒莊附設的餐廳用膳,要先選好喝甚麼酒,然後才用菜色來配合,因此出來的味道非常匹配。 Diners select their wines first, and then the dishes are paired accordingly.

Diana Madeline 2011以5種葡萄去釀造,其主幹是赤霞珠,陳年能力很強。 Madeline 2011 is made from five grape varieties including Cabernet Sauvignon, and is meant to mature with age.
Diana Madeline 2011以5種葡萄去釀造,其主幹是赤霞珠,陳年能力很強。 Madeline 2011 is made from five grape varieties including Cabernet Sauvignon, and is meant to mature with age.

品嚐鎮莊之寶

另一間令我印象難忘的酒莊是 Cullen Wines,主建築的正門很小,是一層樓高度的小木屋,室內有很多供顧客舒適地品酒的角落,你可以買一瓶佳釀,悠閒地在那裡品嚐,或看書,或透過落地大玻璃欣賞室外的葡萄園。

進入試酒櫃檯,親切的酒侍已經拿出酒杯,笑容滿面地倒了些長相思(Sauvignon Blanc)與賽美蓉(Semillon)的混合酒送到我面前,我一口吞掉之後聳聳肩地微笑說:「還可以!」她看我對混合酒的興趣不大,於是饒有意味地眨了一下眼睛,然後從酒櫃內拿了一瓶鎮莊之寶:Kelvin John chardonnay 2012,酒倒入酒杯的時候已經芬香撲鼻,淺金黃酒色,呷在口裏果香四溢,不甜兼層次豐富,餘韻猶長,是瓶平衡度極高,絕對可以獨自慢慢喝完整瓶的白酒。

酒侍看我懂得欣賞,於是也不拿其他紅酒給我亂試,索性端出酒莊最頂級的 Diana Madeline 2011及2012。Diana 固然在香港不易找到,現在竟然還有機會來個垂直試飲呢。Diana Madeline 是瓶很複雜的紅酒,陳年力量很強,2011 用了 5 種葡萄釀製,較只採用3種葡萄的2012複雜度高得多,蒙瓶試飲的話你還以為是波爾多右岸的作品。

 At the Cullen Wines tasting counter, as the sommelier poured their prized Kelvin John 2012 chardonnay, I could smell the fragrance of the golden-colored wine. This was followed by their top reds, Diana Madeline 2011 and 2012, rarely found in Hong Kong. The Diana Madeline is a complex wine; the 2011, made from five grape varieties, is of greater complexity than the 2012 which is only made from three. In a blind tasting, it would be easy to mistake this for a top Bordeaux.

Cullen Wine的試酒區,由早上10時至黃昏5時關閉,但無時無刻都是這種熱鬧場面。 Cullen Wine’s tasting area is open from 10am to 5pm, and is always bustling with visitors.
Cullen Wine的試酒區,由早上10時至黃昏5時關閉,但無時無刻都是這種熱鬧場面。 Cullen Wine’s tasting area is open from 10am to 5pm, and is always bustling with visitors.
試完酒後,還可以整個系列買下,酒莊會幫忙船運回港,十分方便。 After tasting their wines, you can buy their wines and the vineyard will ship them back for you.
試完酒後,還可以整個系列買下,酒莊會幫忙船運回港,十分方便。 After tasting their wines, you can buy their wines and the vineyard will ship them back for you.
大部分瑪嘉烈河酒莊的主建築就是這種一層樓高小屋,雖然沒有大氣派的古堡,但又別有親切的感覺。 Most Margaret River vineyards feature quaint single-story houses.
大部分瑪嘉烈河酒莊的主建築就是這種一層樓高小屋,雖然沒有大氣派的古堡,但又別有親切的感覺。 Most Margaret River vineyards feature quaint single-story houses.
如果在秋天收割前來到,相信滿滿的葡萄藤會更加漂亮。 Come before the harvesting season to see the beautiful ripe grapes on the vines.
如果在秋天收割前來到,相信滿滿的葡萄藤會更加漂亮。 Come before the harvesting season to see the beautiful ripe grapes on the vines.

澳洲出名袋鼠多,但肉質略嫌太有嚼勁。 Australia is known for its taste for kangeroos meat.
澳洲出名袋鼠多,但肉質略嫌太有嚼勁。 Australia is known for its taste for kangeroos meat.

當造袋鼠肉佐酒

瑪嘉烈河不大,酒莊之間的距離很近,所以剛離開 Cullen Wines,很快便到了 Vasse Felix 酒莊。此酒莊走藝術路線,莊內有個數百平方米的展覽廳,展示當地藝術家的作品,讓遊客品酒之餘也可欣賞藝術。可能喝多了酒,只是來到第三間酒莊,我又有飢餓的感覺,乘 Vasse Felix 酒莊二樓的餐廳還未關門,就吃多一個午餐吧,反正這家酒莊餐館的名氣及食物質素都是區內數一數二的。

在瑪嘉烈河有很多獨立屋形式的住宿,一間獨立屋動輒50多平方米,真是飲得舒服又住得寬敞。 Enjoy a spacious stay in a house when visiting Margaret River.
在瑪嘉烈河有很多獨立屋形式的住宿,一間獨立屋動輒50多平方米,真是飲得舒服又住得寬敞。 Enjoy a spacious stay in a house when visiting Margaret River.

甫坐下,我便向美女侍應說要喝莊內最頂級 Heytesbury 系列的赤霞珠(Cabernet Sauvignon)紅酒。她建議我以今季當造的袋鼠肉來佐酒。袋鼠肉的顏色鮮艷如血、皮微焦,咬下去很多汁,肉質略靱,配合 Heytesbury,鮮肉的羶味即時爆出來,中和了酒裏強勁的單寧,黑色果實、鉛的礦味、果醬味等,結構分明,變化逐層滲出,內涵豐富多變,口感纖細舒服,加上優美的進食環境,我絕對認同當地人說沒有來過 Vasse Felix,就等如沒有到過瑪嘉烈河的說法。

我在瑪嘉烈河也不知試了多少個優秀酒莊,全區共96個酒莊之中,我特愛沉實樸素、但蘊藏卓越潛力的 Woody Nook;也愛絕不出口只在澳洲本土售賣、像車房酒的 Brown’s Hill;還有性格爽朗、不用陳年太久已有良好表現的 Stella Bella……如果你對澳洲酒的印象普通,不妨到此體驗,它必定使你對澳洲酒另眼相看。雖然該地的葡萄酒產量只佔國內4%,比例不算高,但質素卻非常頂級,其土壤與氣候,已成為全澳最適合栽種赤霞珠及梅洛(Merlot)的地域,甚至發展出獨有的微氣候(Micro Climate)境界,風格變化多端。

有人以「小波爾多」來形容瑪嘉烈河區,但我覺得它已不是任何人的影子,它已完全走出自己的風格與個性。

Woody Nook是非常小的家庭式酒莊,探訪時招呼你的隨時是這位莊主。 Woody Nook is a tiny, family-owned producer, so you’re very likely to be served by the owner.
Woody Nook是非常小的家庭式酒莊,探訪時招呼你的隨時是這位莊主。 Woody Nook is a tiny, family-owned producer, so you’re very likely to be served by the owner.

After Cullen Wines came Vasse Felix, where art meets wine. The vineyard regularly exhibits art by contemporary Australian artists. On the second floor is another of the region’s top restaurants. I had a Cabernet Sauvignon from their top Heytesbury line, and paired it with juicy kangaroo meat. The taste of the meat, tannins, and rich fruits made for a rich and varied experience. Vasse Felix is not to be missed. Among the 96 vineyards in Margaret River, I also liked Woody Nook and Brown’s Hill (only sold in Australia) and the ready-to-drink Stella Bella. Even though the region only produces 4% of the countries wines, the quality is extremely high. A trip to Margaret River is likely to change your mind about Australian wines.

Vasse Felix是河區中的大酒莊,其附設的食肆是數一數二好餐廳。 Vasse Felix is one of the region’s larger producers, and its restaurant is one of the region’s finest.
Vasse Felix是河區中的大酒莊,其附設的食肆是數一數二好餐廳。 Vasse Felix is one of the region’s larger producers, and its restaurant is one of the region’s finest.