官府菜精緻點心
Delicate Dim Sum

清末北京有句老話是:「戲界無腔不學譚,食界無口不誇譚。」當時北京著名的有京劇大師譚鑫培、飲食界著名的就是擅長官府菜的譚宗浚;那年代的文人生活時間心思都花在讀書看戲和美食之上,以去譚府吃私房菜為樂事。盡得北京官府譚家菜真傳的永利澳門中菜部行政總廚劉國柱師傅,專門為賓客烹調最精巧、複雜的官家美點,不奇怪京花軒連續四年獲澳門米其林兩星的美譽。
Towards the end of the Qing Dynasty, literati spent their time between two Tans—Tan Xin Pei for splendid opera shows and Tan Zong Jun for delicious food. Nowadays, the Tan cuisine can be tasted at Golden Flower at Wynn Macau, with Executive Chef Liu Guo Zhu presenting the most delicate Peking-style dim sum of two Michelin stars to guests.


 京花軒細嚐譚家菜

譚家菜出自官宦之家,自然極為注重餐飲的環境高雅貴氣,京花軒大廳有種故宮藏寶閣的氣氛,原來是借鑑了華盛頓菲力爾藝術長廊「孔雀間」的設計;飯廳中央一株巨型的蟹爪蘭花樹引來喜氣洋洋的氣氛,將雍容華貴的官府恢弘氣派帶到澳門。

劉師傅學習譚家菜逾二十載:「其特色在於刀功精準,而湯底濃郁,以慢工出細活馳名;還是由中共前總理周恩來品嚐過後倡議,將譚家菜作為招待外賓來訪時的國宴菜。」劉師傅在北京飯店及貴賓樓飯店工作逾四十年,自然有着不少名人到來品味,他招待過的大人物包括中國前領導人鄧小平、英女皇伊麗莎伯二世等。

The imperial Tan cuisine attaches a lot of importance to the ambience. Therefore, Golden Flower is carefully decorated to resemble a royal room by considering the design of Freer Gallery of Art with the decoration of an orchid tree.

Liu had studied the Tan cuisine for over 20 years. He said the cuisine put a lot of focus onto the chef’s slicing techniques, the richness of the broth base and its delicate nature. It was used as the standard style to serve foreign guests, as advocated by former premier Zhou En Lai. Liu had worked in the Beijing Hotel and Grand Hotel Beijing for over 40 years and had cooked for many important guests, such as Deng Xiao Ping and Queen Elizabeth II of the United Kingdom.

「蟹肉黃燒魚肚」單是佐料的雞湯要熬製最少8小時。
The broth base of Stewed Fish Maw with Crab Claw in Supreme Chicken Broth needs to be cooked for at least 8 hours.

先上來的有開胃四小點「譚府烤肉」、「珊瑚白菜卷」、「五香魚」和「老陳醋拌海蜇頭」,一看就知是老北京口味,嚐味要由輕到重,首先是像叉燒卻又鹹中帶甜的譚府烤肉、醃漬過的白菜酸甜帶香、山東滷水風味的鮮醃小黃魚、老陳醋浸泡入味的爽脆海蜇,擺碟那一長條的紅蘿蔔絲,點點水晶珍珠包裹的醬汁,像藝術品般教人印象難忘。

Appetizers included Beijing Roasted Pork, Sweet and Sour Cabbage Roll with Mango in Chili Vinaigrette, Spiced Braised Yellow Croaker and Tossed Jellyfish Head with Vinegar and Garlic. The roasted pork and cabbage are lighter in taste and should be savored first, followed by the fish and jellyfish head. The presentation was just as beautiful as an artwork.

這裏有全澳門首位駐場茶藝師,手藝精巧的那一套泡茶技藝, 教人賞心悅目。
Golden Flower has hired the first tea artist in Macau.

南北點心盡顯心思

這裏有全澳門第一位駐場茶藝師,手藝靈巧精研茶藝十多年並取得專業茶藝師資格,用上數十年的紫砂壼來浸泡自家調配的京花軒特配茶,結合了烏龍茶、菊花、桂花、蘭花,而喝茶也有兩個杯子一高一低,原來是融匯京派茗茶的高身聞香杯,攏合香氣讓人輕聞幽香,再倒進低的品茗杯品嚐才不會燙嘴,味道匯聚了不同層次的花香,順滑爽喉。

The restaurant has also hired the first tea artist in Macau. A clay teapot of a few decades old was used to brew a blended tea of oolong, chrysanthemum, osmanthus and orchid. Two cups of different heights were provided, in line with the Beijing tradition. Tea was first poured into the tall cup for appreciation of the aroma, and then into the short cup to slightly lower the temperature before sipping.

「雞蛋韮菜盒子」即是韮菜餡餅,配合京花軒招牌 花茶,令人齒頰留香。
Chives Pastry with a special blend of tea are complementary.

香茶自然要配上香口的美點,「雞蛋薄脆煎餅」,薄餅本身混合了雞蛋,撒上蔥花、芫茜及芝麻,煎得香脆,賣相吸引,吃起來還滿有蛋香;「雞蛋韮菜盒子」,即是韮菜餡餅,內裏釀滿韮菜粒,還加入雞蛋,所以令味道更香,而且一隻份量挺大,吃得好滿足。

劉師傅特別精製了京花軒的招牌菜「蟹肉黃燒魚肚」作一收結:魚肚以滾油泡發,吸滿以老雞、老鴨、金華火腿及元貝等食材熬製最少8小時的濃湯,魚肚爽口且富含膠質,伴以鮮蟹肉提昇鮮甜味,吃的時候喝一口茶藝師手工沖泡的特配茶別有風味。

The refreshing tea goes best with richer food. Recommendations include a Pancake with Spring Onion, Parsley and Sesame, Chives Pastry, and Rice Rolls in XO Sauce.

To put a perfect end to the meal, Liu made stewed Fish Maw with Crab Claw in Supreme Chicken Broth, with ingredients such as chicken, duck, Jinhua ham and scallop, and was served with a special blend of tea at the restaurant.


京花軒 Golden Flower
地址 Address
澳門宋玉生廣場皇朝外港填海區仙德麗街永利澳門酒店地下
G/F, Wynn Macau, Rua Cidade de Sintra, NAPE, Porto Exterior, Macau
電話 Tel
+853 8986 3663