寬鬆悠閒的韓風
Look Korean Cool

熾熱韓風在亞洲吹得正盛之外,風潮也直捲歐美,即使殿堂級的老佛爺 Karl Lagerfeld 也愛上其闊身廓形設計,或是韓風的獨特悠閒感,在Chanel早春度假系列新作已看出端倪。再者,韓風精髓也體現在運動氣息之上,無論是 BOTTEGA VENETA、Vivienne Tam 等,均將寬鬆的悠閒剪裁融入正裝打扮之中,令人耳目一新。
The Korean bug has been biting designers in Europe and the States as well. Even Karl Lagerfeld has fallen for looser silouettes with Chanel’s spring resort line sporting a breezy, relaxed style. BOTTEGA VENETA, Vivienne Tam and others are also catching on to the fresh, laid-back vibe that’s coming from South Korea.


Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen

古典氣質

在流行的韓國 K-Pop 之外,還有氣質取勝的韓服,在 Chanel 創意總監 Karl Lagerfeld 手上,兩者也可水乳交融和諧得很,這股韓風潮流由早春度假系列女裝拉開序幕,擷取自韓風的箇中精髓,再無限延伸擴張,正如 Karl 所說的「I only have to see a little to do a lot!」

衣衫系列利用抽象的方式,融合了韓國文化與 Chanel 的標誌性風格,比照韓服的高腰、寬袖、領口等設計,也見借鑑於嫁妝木盒上的花朵圖案等,無論是五彩斑斕的色調選擇、寬松閑適的剪裁設計,還是優雅山茶花元素的運用,或是啟發自韓式古裝的頭飾等,全都散發度假休閑風格。當中有採用花呢製成的韓服,以多種明亮色彩呈現,正是 Karl 口中的韓國版 Chanel Jacket,又見融入了南韓傳統拼縫技術製成的高腰裙,有着龐大的形狀及明亮的色彩組合,別樹一格。這些正好詮釋了老佛爺所追求的假日時尚格調,以及滿是活力與生機的氣息。

all model form Chanel

Classic Looks

Aside from K-Pop, South Korean fashion trends are also enjoying tremendous popularity. Chanel’s creative director Karl Lagerfeld managed to inject the essence of those trends into Chanel’s spring resort line. As Karl said, “ I only have to see a little to do a lot!” Using colorful abstract patterns, high waists, wide sleeves etc., Chanel has managed to blend Korean fashion sensibility with the brand’s iconic styling. Other inspirations in the resort collection include the motifs from wooden dowry boxes, loose relaxed cuts and headdresses from Korean period costumes. The Korean edition Chanel tweed jacket is a prime example of this appropriation.


Leonard Paris
Leonard Paris

寬鬆廓形

要知道韓風精髓在於闊袍大袖的寬鬆感,而在 PORTS 1961 設計師 Natasa Cagalj 眼中,就如剛起床那股獨特的慵懶感,整個女裝系列彌漫着閒適輕鬆的格調。衣衫系列有種曾經穿過的熟悉感,精細斜裁的吊帶裙採用柔軟的水洗綢緞,好比睡衣般舒適;而針織衫則可見有磨損的特別效果。又或是一系列可以包裹、纏繞在身上的襯衫,充滿隨性玩味感。亦見黑白西裝、棉府綢襯衫及易穿外套則被賦予了睡衣風,高貴而時尚。

又有將復古氣息融入當代輪廓之中的 Christian Dior 女裝,衣服設計化繁為簡,輪廓乾淨俐落,以短裙短褲為主,集中鑽研為 Bar Jacket 僭建皺摺裝飾,將 Dior 先生 70 年前的經典,在衫腳位置進化成2016年女士們的華麗正裝,這些寬鬆的廓型與半透視的獨特清純感,清爽怡人。至於Fendi女裝則在錯綜複雜的中世紀風格中體現出新風格,有比照從戴安娜王妃婚紗的寬袖,或是追溯於亨利八世和他蓬鬆的宮廷長褲等,當中以高腰的蓬鬆褲裝加上蓬鬆寬大的袖子設計的上衣,整體造型充滿驚艷。

Loose & Breezy

PORTS 1961 designer Natasa Cagalj’s interpretation of the Korean loose & breezy style is more akin to the ease one feels while lounging around in one’s pajamas, lazy and relaxed, using light and easy fabrics such as washable silk. Christian Dior fuses vintage elements with clean, contemporary lines, featuring mini skirts and shorts. The iconic Bar Jacket first designed by Mr Dior 70 years ago has been updated many times over the years. The latest iteration features flounced cuffs, lending it a couture feel. As for FENDI, there are throwback references to the puffy sleeves of Princess Diana’s wedding gown, Henry VIII’s puffy court trousers.


Giorgio Armani
Giorgio Armani

運動氣息

另一邊廂,看來在寬鬆廓形中滲出閒適自在的個人風格,是 BOTTEGA VENETA 男裝春夏作品的重點所在,以深沉的墨綠、藏藍、朱紅、深灰色調點綴着平針紗織衫及精緻的條紋銅氨絲服飾,而較柔和的洗水、石磨及礦石色系,則運用在燈芯絨質感的麂皮和薄綿款式上,可見有柔軟質感的鬆身直腳長褲、或是縐褶式的寬鬆七分褲等跟冷外套和夾克的配搭,有型個性。襯上材質輕便的 Slip On 運動鞋,以不同顏色的皮革拼接出繽紛感,充滿年輕活力的輕便感。

至於一系列 Vivienne Tam 春夏女裝的剪裁輪廓比以往來得中性化,就像穿上男士衣服一樣,這是從二十年代興起的中性時裝風格得到靈感,再加入當代裝飾藝術(Art Deco)的設計元素,連身褲、棒球外套、闊身短褲輪番登場,在優雅之中混入運動氣息。同時亦見條紋格紋混雜其中,配以流行的低腰及寬鬆設計,讓人回憶起七十年代衝浪和滑板手的造型,休閒舒適卻不失時尚,且誘發出鮮明的懷舊特色,別具個性之餘又平易近人,可說是從時裝舞台走入街頭。

把玩運動服概念的也有 Tommy Hilfiger 春夏季男裝系列,在服飾中注入航海和異國情調,配上陽光洗滌出的色調、質感布料和軍服細節等元素,如將航海衣飾細節體現於排汗布料和質感豐富的粗針織上,而必備的運動球衣,可以輕鬆混搭牛仔斜布褲或深色牛仔褲;而牛津紡恤衫便以時尚的色彩拼接和裝飾條紋綴飾;迷你圖案結構予人煥然一新感覺。

Sporty Chic

For men, BOTTEGA VENETA’s loose and easy silhouettes are comfortable and easy to wear. For spring/summer, the palette is mainly darker tones of green, blue, red and gray. A perfect complement to the fun, young, vibrant looks are the slip-on leather sneakers of different colors. Vivienne Tam’s women’s collection has a casual androgynous feel. Taking a nod back to the Art Deco period of the 1920s, the sporty collection features overalls, baseball jackets, tubular mini dresses etc. At the same time, stripes, plaids, low waists, loose silhouettes bring to mind surfer and skater street looks from the 70s. And Tommy Hilfiger’s collection featured looks perfect for boating.