暖男當道。華麗動感
Fine and Dandy

(160117) -- Milan, Jan. 17, 2016 (Xinhua) -- Models display creations as part of the Dolce & Gabbana men's Fall-Winter 2016-2017 show collection during Milan Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, on Jan. 16, 2016. Inspired by the iconic "Spaghetti Western" movies directed by an Italian director Sergio Leone in the 1960s, which brought the Italian movie industry to the attention of the international crowds, the collection shows a contrast between the past (via the embroideries and embellishments of the Wild West) and the present (the shapes, cut, and fit). (Xinhua/Jin Yu)

新舊時空交疊,一眾設計師將 80、90 年代標誌性作品再昇華,從衣衫輪廓、圖案中再聯想,加上愈吹愈烈的運動風,設計更見多元化,如將誇張的墊肩外套進化為 Oversize 大褸,強調質料和流線形輪廓,營造悠閒慵懶氣息,或在瀟灑軍裝上飾以玩味圖案,柔化剛強感,至於融入運動風圖案的華麗外套和上衣,新世代當道的暖男捨我其誰。
Old meets new with designers giving signature looks from the 80s and 90s a fresh new makeover. Whether its new silhouettes, patterns or a sportier feel, there’s a wide range of coats and jackets in this year’s Autumn/Winter collections that will not only keep men warm but also looking fine and dandy.


OveRsize + 斗篷
Oversized Cloaks

運動元素早就滲透入時裝之中,Hip Hop 式闊袍大袖風格登上走秀舞台絕不稀奇,跟流行多季的廓形衣衫有著異曲同工之妙,今年秋冬更進階至份量感十足的大衣,以誇張的視覺效果贏得注視。平易近人的有 Versace 粉嫩色調繭形長身大衣,落肩式設計和鬆身剪裁,一身悠閒隨意感,加上純白或粉藍的 Tone on Tone 配襯,為深沉冬日帶來清新氣息。

擅於皮毛工藝的 Fendi,不意外地將皮草打造成禦寒力強的毛毛大衣,在大玩 Pajamas 時尚睡衣風之餘,也不忘增添更平易近人的運動元素,如乾脆將啡色皮草化身為寬大的拉鍊衛衣外套,或是將皮草裝飾於西裝的反領、口袋和內襯之上,瞬間抹去了正裝的嚴肅氣息,而藍色軍裝風外套的鮮黃色皮草內襯也甚鮮明突出,配上深藍暗條紋西裝竟毫不突兀,以一身奢華展現張狂魅力。要數最具份量的必是 Dolce & Gabbana 毛毛大衣,多得與肩線看齊的大反領,平衡了幾近及地的長身設計,內搭簡約的深色衫褲已經氣場十足。

將闊袍大袖之設計推向極致,便是搶眼懾人的斗篷,即使主打正裝兼以精巧細節取勝的 Ermenegildo Zegna,也將長版條紋孖襟西裝褸來個變奏版,化身為羊毛提花圖案斗篷,保留了大反領、孖襟鈕釦和鮮明肩線等西裝細節,整體線條俐落流暢,展現沈穩內斂之氣質。Prada 亦同樣以西裝褸為藍本,當中的灰色西裝斗篷最有特色,除了顯眼的袖口位設計,還搭配可隨意裝卸的毛毛衣領,加上開鈕式的披搭穿著方式,打造出多層次輪廓造型,型格又瀟灑。Dolce & Gabbana 的男裝灰色羊毛斗篷一樣精彩,連帽設計加上白色流蘇邊裝飾,滿是西部牛仔的不羈氣息。

Sporty elements are everywhere in fashion. It’s no surprise that the loose, laid-back sensibility of Hip Hop has made it onto the runways of seasons past. This A/W season, that sensibility is making a statement through oversized overcoats. There’s Versace’s cocoon of a coat with drop shoulders in an approachable baby blue or crisp white to brighten up a gloomy winter’s day. Dolce & Gabbana’s fur coat makes a statement with a long coat with a big collar that spans the width of the shoulders. Prada’s cape comes with a prominent, but detachable, fur collar. Dolce & Gabbana also has a grey wool hooded poncho with white fringe, giving off a touch of the cowboy attitude.

 


花俏活潑:印花 + 塗鴉
Prints + Graffiti

講到花俏的印花或圖騰,首選魔幻感滿溢的 Gucci,創意總監 Alessandro Michele 在東方圖騰、大自然意念中融入古怪浪漫的誘人元素,帶來格紋大衣與 cap 帽的英國偵探造型,及至滿是繁複花卉刺繡的中式唐裝衫褲,還有別具中國氣息的獅龍臉孔立體刺繡針織辮子毛帽、毛毛loafer涼鞋等奇妙配搭,在多重衝突中散發詩意美感。至於街頭氣息十足的花卉刺繡牛仔褸、Bomber外套也是主打重點,後背滿佈繽紛多采的刺繡、塗鴉與布章等裝飾,一片由花卉、蜜蜂、蛇等圖案組成的花園世界,當中更見繡上了傳奇歌手David Bowie的名字,天馬行空的創意總令人拍案叫絕。在這一片華麗猖狂之中,驚喜發現了可愛的Snoopy圖案上衣,襯上黃黑格紋運動衫褲,童趣滿分。

Gucci 女裝同樣華麗復古,充滿運動和搖滾氛圍,如大玩珍珠與鍊飾的針織毛衣,襯上條紋的膝下裙和相呼應的間紋手袋和襪子,一氣呵成的優雅運動風,又見綴上毛領的 Oversize 拉鍊外套跟斯文印花裙的配搭,個性型格。

來到Roberto Cavalli的翩翩貴公子造型,將擅長的奢華印花用在睡衣風西裝之上,外披豹紋皮草大衣,別有一番慵懶性感。又見淡紫色暗花西裝襯上相近色系的波點絲巾、麖皮外套配碎花絲巾、銀色鍋釘串珠的薄紗襯衫、綴以鑽飾的燈心絨外套等,獨特在於全以平實的運動鞋,甚至牛仔褲作配搭,藉由簡單與奢華的對比混搭,隨性華麗個徹底。

Prints and ornamental elements were all over the runways of Gucci and Roberto Cavalli this season. Gucci’s creative director Alessandro Michele found inspiration in Eastern totems and nature as well as plaids. Embroidery featured heavily in the collection on hats and jackets featuring intricate Chinese lions and dragons, flowers, bees, snakes and other patterns, decorative patches and graffiti. There were also fur-lined loafers, and Snoopy even made a cameo appearance on a top. Roberto Cavalli featured a leopard print fur coat, a suede jacket paired with a floral print silk scarf, a chiffon shirt with silver rivets and beading, a decorated corduroy jacket, etc. Amidst all this flamboyance, a simple, practical pair of sneakers stood out.


軍裝 + 華麗柔情風
MilitarY + Dandy

軍人靈活敏捷的身手和英勇故事,來到設計師手上轉化為軍裝美學風格,Balmain 設計師用上絢爛的法蘭絨裝飾、亮片刺繡、真皮編織,以及金色鈕釦、徽章、流穗等細節,打造出一系列異常華麗的軍裝風衣衫,有滿是金線刺繡的騎兵外套,而瀰漫 19 世紀服飾特色的格紋絲絨腰封和流蘇繫帶更是重點所在,再腳踏高筒皮革長靴,英姿翩翩,將奢華矚目進行到底。

至於 Dries van Noten 則融入古典主義的裝飾手法,顛覆了傳統的軍事元素,想不到 MA-1 飛行員夾克與人造皮草毛領可以如此相襯,又見由肩至胸前飾以綁帶細節的水洗黑色羊毛風衣,還有軍裝少不了的徽章、肩章裝飾,分別於多口袋外套和外套上閃閃生輝,襯上羊毛或皮草圍巾,讓一身的硬朗的軍裝風格添上奢華風度。以典雅角度出發的 Louis Vuitton 工裝外套、拼接羊羔毛大衣,或是可雙面穿著的輕盈大衣,均將以往崩緊的肩線變得放鬆,下襬也來得寬鬆些,少了份高貴,卻增添硬朗與溫和的吸引力,跟休閒造型混搭最適合。

The courage and skill of military heroes have inspired many designers’ collections. This season, Balmain appropriated the decorations on military uniforms, incorporating sequined embroidery, braided leather, gold buttons, badges and other details to create his uniform for the valiantly fashionable man. The collection featured a cavalry jacket and gold thread embroidery. Dries van Noten featured an MA-1 Bomber jacket with a faux fur collar, while Louis Vuitton’s elegant double-sided, shearling frock coat is a lightweight addition to the dandy’s wardrobe.