勞力士經典腕錶系列
The Vintage of Rolex

經典勞力士腕錶多年來一直大受腕錶愛好者的歡迎,全因這些腕錶無論在錶殼、機芯、錶帶還是錶盤細節的設計上,都盡顯復古懷舊之風,加上市場上極為罕有,往往令收藏家趨之若鶩。

There are many watch enthusiasts who collect vintage Rolex watches due to their nostalgic style in the designs of case, movement, strap and dial, as well as the extreme rarity.

Daytona 6263

Daytona(全名Cosmograph Daytona,俗稱地通拿)於1963年誕生,這款專為地通拿賽事而設計的計時腕錶,特徵是手表上的三個小計時盤,在勞力士中是獨一無二的。

自1963年以來,至今勞力士共生產過多款地通拿,當中尤以60年代末,由名人保羅紐曼佩戴的Ref.6241 Exotic錶盤的地通拿最為人所共知。保羅紐曼身兼賽車手和好萊塢明星的雙重身份,順理成章讓地通拿成為流行文化符號。這款設計“Exotic”的地通拿,後來不但以保羅紐曼來命名,他當年所佩戴的那一枚手錶,更是在2018年以1,700萬美元的成交價,創下當時最貴手錶的拍賣紀錄。有趣的是這個特別的設計當年其實並不太受歡迎,如今卻變成收藏界的聖杯。

Cosmograph Daytona (Daytona) was debuted in 1963, a racinginspired watch designed for the Daytona and characterized by three subdials.

Since 1963, Rolex has produced many types of Daytona, the most famous one would be Rolex Paul Newman Daytona Ref. 6241 Exotic Dial Watch in the late 1960s. As a racecar driver and a Hollywood star, Paul Newman was definitely the one who turned Daytona into a symbol of pop culture. Later the watch has been named after him. In 2018, Paul Newman’s “Paul Newman” Daytona was sold for USD 17.8 million, a record for a wristwatch at auction. Interestingly, its unique design was not very popular at the time, but now it has become the holy grail of collectors.

GMT-Master Long E 1675

1955年推出的GMT-Master專為顯示兩個不同時區的時間而設計,推出之初旨在為環球旅行人士使用。在眾多腕錶藏家的心中,1982年問世的GMT-Master II最具標誌性的設計當屬紅藍配色的經典錶圈。從最初的型號6542到最新推出的陶瓷圈型號126710BLRO,由於紅藍搭配的錶圈和百事可樂著名的球形標誌有著相似的色彩設計,收藏家就為腕錶起了“ Pepsi ”這樣的愛稱。

Launched in 1955, the GMT-Master is a wristwatch for world travellers that was designed to show the time in two different time zones simultaneously. Collectors especially love the GMT-Master II unveiled in 1982 with the familiar nickname “Pepsi” due to its iconic blue and red bezel, same colour scheme of the Pepsi logo. It evolved from the classic GMT-Master Ref. 6542 into the Rolex GMTMaster II 126710BLROwith ceramic bezels.

Milgauss 1019

1956年,勞力士發表了全新概念的Milgauss腕錶,這枚抗磁場腕錶能夠在1,000 高斯的磁場下依舊行走如常。Milgauss的命名便是由Mille(一千)與Gauss(高斯)合併而成。1962年,最令人熟知的Milgauss Ref.1019登場。38毫米的錶盤上,個性化的閃電秒針變成了普通紅色三角頭秒針。內部的機芯是在堪稱一代經典的Cal.1570 基礎上進行改良,採用防磁游絲的1580。

In 1956, Rolex introduced the first Rolex Milgauss, designed to withstand magnetic fields of up to 1,000 gauss. The name Milgauss itself, is a compound word created by Rolex. “Mil” comes from Mille, the French for 1,000, and “Gauss”, a unit of measurement of magnetic fields. In 1962, the Milgauss Ref.1019 sized at 38 mm in diameter was debuted, which saw the signature lightning bolt seconds hand replaced with a straight second hand with a small red arrow tip. The watch is powered by Rolex’s Caliber 1580, an anti-magnetic version of the legendary movement 1570.

Submariner Gilt Dial 5512

俗稱“水鬼”的Submariner潛航者腕錶誕生於1953年,在1959年推出的第二代的型號Ref.5512的水鬼更奠定了腕錶日後的發展。首先,錶殼直徑由第一代的36毫米擴大到了40毫米,這個尺寸一直沿用至今。其次,表圈上面的凹槽由側面轉移到了正面,添加了更為細緻的15分鐘刻度。另外這一代更首次用上俗稱“奔馳針”的錶針,因為他的外形和奔馳商標相似,加上均勻塗抹和穩固上面的夜光塗料,在黑暗中更便捷地區分時針、分針以獲知準確時間。

Launched in 1953, the Submariner was the first water-resistant Rolex watch. The Ref. 5512 unveiled in 1959 is considered the first modern design for the Submariner, since it came in a 40 mm diameter, replacing the 36 mm diameter of the previous references. It introduced a 15-minute-marker fluted bezel with crown guards. It also featured the so-called “Mercedes” hands with luminous material used on the dials to enhance legibility in the darkness.

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