巴塞爾:諸神的花園
Baselworld 2017 The Gods’ Garden

瑞士的春天來早了,一片暖陽下看惹人遐想的腕錶,指針像被施了魔法,追逐着太陽和月相。新世代解開傳統的咒語,錶盤上可以是漫着大洪水的海盜骷髏潛水錶、可以是伴着美女飛到穹蒼之上的航空錶;時光的轉輪一時變成了金色的寶石花園、一時又可以是琺瑯星空宇宙。瞄瞄腕上的精雕細琢的時計,諸神的花園正在其中!
The warm spring in Switzerland leads us to an infinite imagination of the most magical watches ever – be it a diver’s watch of a pirate skull, or a flying fairy with an aviator watch. The wheel of time is a golden jade garden, occasionally the galaxy with enormous enamel. Zooming in, the meticulous craftsmanship is a reproduction of the God’s garden.


OMEGA
Speedmaster 60th Anniversary

一個甲子對一款經典腕錶來說,可說已是一段豐富的人生。歐米茄超霸系列60 周年有種反璞歸真,分別回歸三款1957 年代最根本的原型設計之上,復古的大箭頭指針,彷彿已喻示着彎弓射月的決心,而這根箭頭今天要射的更加是無限遙遠的穹蒼!

在被選為登月腕錶之前,超霸錶於1957年初推出時有着闊大的箭頭指針,從其英文名字Speedmaster不難猜出原來的設計是瞄準着賽車運動,賽車手一瞥大箭頭即可知道時間。今年複刻的三款套錶也是向第一代的超霸錶致敬,錶盤經過造舊處理,連同指針刻度的夜光物料也有若經歷時光而變成棕色;分別為Speedmaster、Seamaster300、Railmaster 三款各限量3,557枚作品,其中557套三步曲盛於古典木盒內作套裝售賣,附有NATO帶及皮帶,懷舊木盒上還有着經典的古希臘海馬圖案。60 年前錯過的,今天正好重新尋回。

A diamond jubilee of a watch is a lifetime worth of celebration. The 60th anniversary of the OMEGA Speedmaster Collection goes back to its true self, returning to the original design of the 50’s. Before it’s proudly named as the Moon Watch in 1957, its retro broad arrow hands are designed for car racers to look at the time – as you could tell from its name. Applied with vintage process in the dial’s brown noctilucent material,this year’s retro collection pays tribute to its first generation with Speedmaster, Seamaster 300 and Railmaster, limited to 3,557 pieces for each model, in which 557 of the Trilogy are sold in wooden box set crafted with the mythical Greek seahorse, while also come with NATO and leather straps.


Graham
Chronofighter Vintage Nose Art Limited Edition

這枚44毫米限量作品分別取材自二戰時繪於美軍軍機上的Nose Art 美女,分別有Sally、Anna、Lilly、Nina四款腕錶,每款限量100枚,並繪於錶盤正面。二戰年代戰機、轟炸機隊將插畫圖案繪於機鼻部位,對飛行員來說是一種祈求作戰幸運、安全回家的吉祥物,也是凝聚團隊的共同圖案。今次四款造型,髮色膚色各有不同的美女,其中穿著吊襪帶的Lilly全身呈現,不像其他三位是上身穿過小秒盤,長腿跨出30 分鐘時盤。

This 44mm, 100-limited piece is inspired by the military nose art painted on USA’s WWII aircrafts, with the choice of pin-up girls in Sally, Anna, Lilly and Nina illustrated on the dial. Back in war times,girls were often painted on the nose of the aircraft as a morale boost and blessing. These four girls in the Chronofighter edition each have different skin and hair color, with Lily showing her full body wearing garters while the other three girls have their legs crossing the hour dial.


Chanel
Mademoiselle J12

香奈兒女士是永恆時尚態度的代表,今年錶展上J12推出穿著香奈兒經典黑白緄邊套裝、戴珍珠耳環與帽飾的熟悉側面形貌被直接放上了錶面,可愛的模樣讓這枚腕錶成了今年最可愛的驚喜。由香奈兒親自坐鎮錶面的J12作品,有着經典黑白陶瓷兩種款式,開展的雙手成了時針及分針,姿態特別新趣迷人,可謂人見人愛。黑白兩款各限量555 枚。

Coco Chanel is the representation of modern fashion. In this year’s watch exhibition, J12 borrows the classic Chanel black-and-white embroidered dress, pearl ear rings and hat on the watch’s dial to showcase one of the cutest surprise of the show. Crafted exclusively by Chanel, J12’s dial is available in black and white ceramics, with both hands using humorously with the character’s hands. Both black and white versions are each limited with 555 pieces.


Konstantin Chaykin
Joker

這位俄羅斯獨立製錶工匠每每創製出別出心裁的作品,最新打造玩世不恭的Joker就成為巴塞爾熱話之一,這個個性十足的小丑作品不似蝙蝠俠故事裏那麼壞,倒是表情多多,計算起來至少擁有二萬種表情哩!42毫米錶盤為醒目的綠色、紫色及紅色元素,咧嘴大笑的卡通表情其實是紅色的大月相顯示,兩隻骨碌骨碌轉動的眼珠其實是時分的顯示,十分有心思想像,又融合美藝技術,加上兩邊的錶冠,一邊調校時間、一邊調校月相,恰似小丑的兩隻耳朵,錶帶為綠色縫線及紫色小牛皮,跟小丑的主題十分呼應。

This cleverly crafted creation from the independent Russian watchmaker is one of the most talk-about item in Basel this year. Themed with the whimsy Batman villain with more than 20,000 distinct facial expressions, the Konstantin Chaykin Joker has a 42mm wide case with accent colors in green, purple and red. Imaginative and beautifully crafted, the watch’s elongated red mouth and tongue on the dial is actually a moon phase indicator, while his eyes serve as the hour and minute tracks. The case has a crown on each side – one for time and one for the moon phase – which are meant to serve as ears for his face, while the custom strap is an alligator with green stitching and deep violet-colored calfskin lining.


Graff
MasterGraff GyroGraff Galaxy

這款超級豪華的砂金石錶盤繪畫宇宙作品,承襲GyroGraff的特式,48毫米玫瑰金錶殼及黑色鱷魚皮表帶,配備三維月相顯示及手動上鏈雙軸陀飛輪,於7點鐘方位以人手雕刻黃金詮釋的月球表面神秘動人,4點鐘方位更是上鏈雙軸陀飛輪震撼耀眼機芯,11點鐘方位是60小時動力儲存顯示,2點鐘方位則有鑲嵌一顆鑽石的品牌標誌,並有鉓以鑽石的調校錶冠,還有鑽石錶圈以品牌經典的隱形馬賽克鑲嵌法,美妙至極。限量10枚。

Inheriting the characteristics of GyroGraff, this masterpiece of galaxy image is equipped a high fire enamel dial with a 48mm rose gold case and black crocodile strap. The MasterGraff GyroGraff Galaxy is designed with a three-dimensional, hand-engraved gold moon phase indicator at 7 o’clock, a manual winding double-axis tourbillon at 4 o’clock, and a 60-hour power reserve at 11 o’clock. The timepiece also demonstrates its luxurious status featuring a diamond logo, a diamond crown, and most strikingly the diamond-covered bezel using invisible mosaic assembling technique. Limited to 10 pieces.


Jaquet Droz
Loving Butterfly Automaton

這枚名為「愛之蝴蝶自動玩偶」的新穎作品,呈現出愛神丘比特乘坐蝴蝶牽動着小車之場景,以微繪琺瑯和雕刻工藝進行演繹,只需按壓錶冠的按鈕,充滿詩意的場景即在錶鏡下上演,優雅的蝴蝶會輕盈拍翼牽動天使的車子飛翔,而車輪在柔柔地轉動,製造出一種視覺運動的奇妙效果,展現自動玩偶大師的精湛技藝,讓愛意永恆不息,如夢似幻般令人嘆為觀止!限量40枚白金或紅金,部件全以手工雕刻而成。

This love-inspired watch tells a story of a cherub seated on a chariot drawn by a butterfly using painted enamel and sculpture. With just one push on the crown button, a world of poetry comes to life under the dial’s crystal, where the elegant butterfly pulling a cherub in an animated chariot. The chariot’s wheel begins to turn in an exquisite optical illusion, a fabulous play of movements illustrating a technique well-known to automaton designers. Love is in motion and this refined design triggers astonishment. Comes in hand-engraved parts in white or red gold, each model is limited to 40 pieces.


Corum
Big Bubble Magical M. Ceccarini

崑崙今年最新推出的52毫米大錶殼Big Bubble 款,把錶盤升高至最頂層,覆蓋指針,只留下時分針針端的一大一小兩個圓環,動力儲存為65小時。與意大利DJ及作曲家Matteo Ceccarini合作,他曾為不少奢侈品牌製作時裝秀的背景音樂,他選擇了藍色的瞳孔,因為眼睛是靈魂的鏡像,有着庇護的意涵,並以白底配淡灰圓點的效果,最獨特之處是眼球以3D技術製作,並配上藍寶石拱形鏡面,令效果絕對驚人。限量88 枚。

Corum’s newest creation features a 52 mm Big Bubble design, elevating the dial to a level that the hands remain only with two circles, while equipped with 65 hours of power reserve. Italian DJ and composer Matteo Ceccarini, who worked with many luxury fashion brands in his music creation, chooses a blue eye, which is often quoted as the mirror of the soul, because it has a protective implication. The visual impression is further enhanced by 3D-printing technology and its domed sapphire crystal. Limited to 88 pieces.


Blancpain
Battle of the Queen Cows

近年寶珀每年都會由其藝術大師工作室創製一枚技驚四座的腕錶,今年的「雙牛爭王」亦不例外,以金屬雕刻配以品牌珍視的古老赤銅工藝技術,以紅金打造再以銅鹽溶液進行鈍化,令錶盤呈濃郁的綠灰色澤。在瑞士地標馬特洪峰前,一場兩頭雄牛決鬥爭王雙角力撼的震撼畫面展示出來,彷彿可以聽到那沉重的撞擊之聲。瑞士馬特洪峰海拔高達4,478米,像一座金字塔一般,是瑞士最著名的山峰,也是世界各地攀山好手夢想征服之地。

This year, Blancpain and its Métiers d’Art Workshop present a new remarkable timepiece in “Battle of the Queen Cows”. Made of the unique Shakudō alloy, which is processed with a copper salt bath to accelerate oxidation, the watch’s materials feature a greenish grey tint that is engraved with gold appliques depicting the cow fight in front of the legendary Matterhorn, a 4,478 meters high pyramidal shaped mountain that is celebrated by climbers around the world.


Dior
Grand Soir Botanic

今年是品牌七十週年紀念,特別貫徹了時尚與工藝的傳統基因,尤其是這8款獨一無二的花園概念腕錶,帶您夢幻般漫遊微小珠寶砌作的花園中妍麗綻放的春花,細心觀察上邊的繁花茂盛。整個花園種了什麼花草植物都看得清清楚楚,鑲嵌水仙花淡黃色藍寶石和鑽石或舒展或卷曲,鑲嵌欖尖形切割藍寶石綴飾的花卉或扁平或帶穗,於36毫米錶盤上盡顯工藝師的功力,海軍藍網眼織物錶帶亦由百年歷史的傳統絲帶工坊負責生產。

Celebrating the 70th anniversary of the brand,Dior presents 8 one-of-a-kind Grand Soir Botanic timepieces. Inspired by a fairy-tale garden in bloom,precious stones, materials and dazzling colors play with volumes to create the illusion of a flower blossoming under the glass. The dial is adorned with mother-of-pearl, opals and polished gold elements,while the 36mm case is covered with a pave of snowset diamonds, and the strap in midnight blue fabric which is produced by traditional workshops.


Hermès
Slim d’ Hermès GRRRRR

今年由藝術家Alice Shirley所設計的愛馬仕絲巾圖案帶點狂野的巨熊十分受歡迎,特意將此巨熊純服於指掌的錶盤之上,以愛馬仕的微繪琺瑯技術製作,每種顏料塗覆到39.5毫米白金面盤上時,動物的表情變得更令人生畏。每一層之間在乾燥及焙燒階段要精準無誤,打造出與佩戴者心靈相融相通的腕錶,一旦熊的肖像完成,就會再由半透明琺瑯加以保護,確保永久保持如新光澤。整枚表為白金材質。

Designed by artist Alice Shirley, the wild-looking gruff bear is a big surprise in this year’s Baselworld. Using the technique of miniature enamel painting,each color is painted on the 39.5mm platinum dial.With each pigment applied to the white gold dial, the bear’s expression becomes more daunting. Between each layer, it must not weaken during the drying and the ring stages calling for faultless precision. When the painting of the bear is done, it is applied with extra translucent enamel to keep it away from degradation.The entire timepiece is made of platinum.


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