芬迪的後續傳奇
Fendi: The Continuous Legend

首個沒有卡尔.拉格斐的芬迪2020早春度假系列,由西爾維婭.文圖里尼.芬迪以其豐富創造力為芬迪續寫傳奇。
With her creativity, Silvia Venturini Fendi continued the legend of Fendi with the Resort 2020 collection, the first since Karl Lagerfeld’s passing.

text: Michelle Siu

人稱“ 老佛爺”的一代經典設計師卡爾.拉格斐同時身兼香奈兒、芬迪及同名品牌卡爾.拉格斐的創意總監,可惜他今年2月於巴黎去世,令時尚界失去一位傳奇人物。芬迪2020度假系列,就是第一個非由老佛爺操刀的系列,而是由與卡爾.拉格斐合作無間的西爾維婭.文圖裡尼.芬迪接手,她是芬迪家族的第三代傳人,也是芬迪配飾及男裝設計師,芬迪最熱門的包款Baguette正是出自她手。

時尚界人士都很好奇沒有了卡尔.拉格斐,芬迪未來的動向如何。當看到西爾維婭.文圖里尼.芬迪掌舵的芬迪2020度假系列,便知道她的新作依舊保留芬迪的重要傳統元素,然而也加添了嶄新色彩。芬迪2020度假系列向約翰.卡薩維茲執導的80年代驚悚片《葛洛麗婭》致敬,片中性感美豔的女角有無所畏懼的性格,其服飾時尚優雅且帶誘人風格,特別是資產階級所穿的風衣、注重肩線的西裝外套等,都是芬迪這個系列的主要靈感。品牌推出一系列柔軟而剪裁干凈利落的的西裝外套搭配背面帶有蝴蝶結的嫻熟迷笛裙;兩側的性感高衩露出迷人雙腿和高跟皮靴;火焰紅的沖壓漆皮為經典風衣增添了大膽的感覺;高腰闊腳褲採用深褶設計,帶有一絲男士氣息,至於高腰褲皮革的面料則是受80年代的系列所啟發,配上別緻的真絲襯衫堪稱一絕。整個系列採用了柔軟流暢的面料,同時融合男女裝的玩味元素,還以結構性和寬鬆版型,展示女性不失剛強的一面。而著名的Karligraphy主題、雙F標誌和Pequin(黑色和棕色條紋)也接連以各種形式出現,貫徹對經典的重新演繹,呼應上一季卡尔.拉格斐的設計,並向這位傳奇大師表達敬意。

芬迪推出的皮草成衣系列是其最著名標誌,開創了高尚時裝風潮,而芬迪的皮具產品同樣是不少人的摯愛。今年較早之前芬迪重新推出優雅又摩登的Baguette包,相信會上架一段時間,時尚人士必定不能錯過。在2020度假系列,Baguette包以有浮雕標誌的皮革展示,並呈現豐富多彩的異國情調。這種異國風情同樣出現於芬迪的經典手袋系列,例如Mini Peekaboo和Peekaboo x-Lite。
憑藉西爾維婭.文圖里尼.芬迪的首秀,這個系列還展示了一些值得注意的手提包新設計,例如帶有長鏈扣的水桶包。

綜觀而言,這次的芬迪2020早春度假系列承先啟後,是品牌一個重要的過渡,相信時尚界也十分期待西爾維婭.文圖里尼.芬迪在未來可以繼續帶領芬迪創造更多的傳奇。

The fashion industry has lost one of its most legendary and prolific talents, Karl Lagerfeld, Creative Director of Chanel, Fendi and KarlLagerfeld, whose passed away in Paris this February. Resort 2020 is the first Fendi collection designed without the late Karl Lagerfeld’s guidance, presented by Silvia Venturini Fendi, the third-generation Fendi designer and creative director of accessories and menswear, who was responsible for the creation of the iconic Baguette bag.

People in the fashion industry are all curious,“after Karl Lagerfeld, what’s next for Fendi?” The Fendi Resort 2020 collection proves that the transition has been seamlessly secured by Silvia Venturini Fendi, which retains Fendi’s traditional elements with the creative input. She pays homage to John Cassavetes’s ’80s thriller “Gloria”, in which the female protagonist had a fearless and sexy character, with a provocative look, classy but seductive. References were made in the bourgeois trench coats and sharp-shouldered blazers. For the collection, a series of soft tailored suits with sharp-cut blazers crafted in lightweight, feminine fabrics paired with matching trapeze midi skirts,the sexy high slits on the sides revealing bare legs and high-heeled leather boots. Stamped patent leather in flame red added a frisson of audacity to a classic trenchcoat, as well as with high-waisted pants with deep pleats injected with a mannish feel. Leather was also the fabric of choice for ’80s-inspired collection. The logo was played subtly but consistently throughout the collection: the famous Karligraphy theme, together with the double FF and the Pequin, paying tribute to the legendary master Karl Lagerfeld.

Fendi’s heritage began as a family-run fur atelier, besides the iconic fur collection, its leather products are also loved by many people. Fendi re-released the Baguette Bag earlier this year. For Resort 2020, the Baguette is shown in embossed logo leather as well as updated versions in lush, colorful exotics. Exotics were also at play on Fendi classics such as the Mini Peekaboo and the Peekaboo x-Lite. With Silvia Venturini Fendi’s solo debut, this collection also featured some new handbag designs such as a top handle bucket bag with a long chain closure.

All in all, the Fendi Resort 2020 collection shows that a legacy that has smoothly passed into the hands of Silvia Venturini Fendi. The fashion industry looks forward to her future Fendi creation.