越南大叻 中法浪漫之景
The Romance of Da Lat

越南建築有著古色古香的青瓦平房,也有不少帶鐘塔的法式樓宇;越南人會以法式長麵包作早餐,也會到中華會館下的露天咖啡座享受一個下午的滴漏咖啡香。兩種迴異的文化,在越南的大叻完美融合,譜出浪漫的中法之景。
Traditional Chinese houses stand alongside French buildings in Vietnam. The same blend of Chinese and French influences can also be seen in the food scene as people roam from baguette shops to cafes converted from Chinese assembly halls. In Da Lat, such mixture exists in its perfect form, giving the city a romantic ambience.


百年法式車站

大叻位於越南中部的高原,因此自法國殖民時代已是熱門的避暑勝地,溫和涼爽的氣候、清新的空氣,有別於城市的燠熱與嘈雜。城中有一個逾百年的古老火車站,遠遠看去會被站前三個小尖塔前樓,以及後面的偌大尖型屋頂吸引着,似是一座宮殿的味道,看到中央的大鐘才令人驚覺這裏是火車站;彎彎的屋簷令人有一點巴黎地鐵站的新藝術風味,鵝黃色的調子跟越南的古老法式建築同一格調。

這個火車站在1938年法國殖民地時期建造,已經有將近百年歷史,也是越南最古老的火車站。這裏保留了數輛古董小火車,且這些“ 活古蹟”通通還未退役,每天仍會定時發車,讓您體驗一段懷舊火車之旅。整輛木車廂僅有25個座位,寧靜的旅途上,25個旅人也猶如殖民時代的貴族,大家互相傳遞着站上捎來的零食菓品,遙望窗外盛開的花卉,老火車彷彿又帶着大家奔回去青葱的歲月,重溫昔時回鄉避暑的快樂時光。

Historical French-style Train Station

Located in Vietnam’s Central Highlands region, Da Lat has been a popular summer retreat since the French colonial days. People escape the city heat to Da Lat for its fresh and cool air. The 80-year-old railway station is an important landmark in town. The three pointed roofs in front and the extensive tiled roof behind them are particularly eye-catching. It can be mistaken as a palace at first sight but the clock on the central tower gives the real purpose of the building away. The round porches on the front echo the Art Nouveau style of metro stations in Paris, while the yellow facade shares the same characteristics with other old French buildings in Vietnam.

The station, built in 1938, is the oldest in Vietnam. Several historical trains still run every day, taking visitors on a retro-tour. There are only 25 seats in the wooden compartment, giving the experience an exclusive feel. The journey is tranquil yet cosy. Passengers exchange snacks as the train passes by flower fields. It brings people back in time when natural breezes offer the best air conditioning.


瘋狂屋顛覆浪漫想像

若說不少人到大叻都因為瘋狂屋而來,可能有點誇張,但事實上它的吸引力真的足以讓人一見難忘!相信這家瘋狂屋的建築師一定是瘋狂的,屋前介紹說這位留學俄羅斯的越南女建築師十分喜歡天馬行空的想像,夜裏這裏打着七色的燈光,帶出一點詭異的氣氛。十間別出心裁的房間,內裡設計更加充滿童話感覺,除了以泥塑石雕出各種鹿、熊、象等動物,也有虎皮與老鷹等,每件傢俱也都像扭曲的樹枝,三角形的窗口有蜘蛛網窗花,原塊大樹頭的桌子等等。瘋狂屋位於城中的山上,因此空氣十分清新,難得住上一個晚上,感覺像住進了原始森林當中,早上起來還以為仍置身夢中。

Crazy House: Unconventional Romance

It may be an exaggeration to say most people come to Da Lat for Crazy House, but it does leave a strong impression on a lot of people. The architect behind Crazy House studied in Russia and is unconventional in her design. At night, light of different colours is projected to the house, further adding to the spooky atmosphere. The formal name for Crazy House is Hang Nga Guesthouse and its rooms are decorated in an imaginative manner. Sculptures of deer, bear and elephants complement furniture resembling twisted twigs. The frames of the triangular windows are styled after cobwebs and the desk is made from a solid tree trunk. The hotel is located at the top of a hill with no shortage of fresh and cool air. Spend a night there and you may feel that you are still in a dream when you get up.


靈福寺想像空間

“靈福寺”被譽為越南最華麗的寺廟之一,其華麗之處在於寺廟內每一吋牆壁都以不同色彩陶瓷碎片拼貼而成,鉅細靡遺地組合顏色與形狀,令寺廟散發出一種整件瓷器藝術品的味道。這座寺廟歷史不算太悠久,建於1953年,然而整座寺廟裏裏外外每個角落要以不同大小的陶瓷碎片組合色彩作拼貼,這種精工細作,所耗費的人力物力實在難以想像。寺廟中還有用瓷片拼成的各式龍鳳畫作,室內所用的一系列藍色瓷磚傢俱既古典又摩登,由於其裝飾華麗,因此吸引不少香客絡繹不絕遠道而來朝拜。

Linh Phuoc Pagoda: Space of Imagination

Linh Phuoc Pagoda is said to be one of the most glamourous shrines in Vietnam. The walls inside are covered with porcelain mosaics, pieced together perfectly to form different shapes and colours. The temple, built in 1953, is not particularly old but it showcases exquisite craftsmanship. The manpower involved in creating the mosaics was tremendous. There are other mosaic works in the temple featuring dragons and phoenixes. The blue tiles and furniture inside are classic and modern at the same time. Many worshippers pay a visit to the shrine for a glimpse of its glamour.


會安中華街露天咖啡座

從大叻坐飛機一個小時便到海濱古鎮會安,秋日的豔陽下,走在垂掛頭頂的七色燈籠下,陣陣海風從秋盆河上習習吹來,聞到的不只是傳統的茶香,還有法蘭西的咖啡香,只因在這古老城鎮中,有許多古老華人商號木板樓或法式別墅,都敞開大門改成一家家的露天咖啡館,任由遊人坐到涼棚下享受一點法式咖啡座風情。

這裏是聯合國教科文組織列為世界遺產的古鎮,其中的福建會館、廣肇會館、潮州會館、瓊府會館、中華會館等都開放予遊客,擺放數張小圓桌就成了巴黎路邊咖啡座,只是小巷頭頂都是懸掛着紅黃藍綠紫綢緞燈籠,處處圍牆上漫生着熱帶的九重葛紫紅色的花朵,讓人在法式生活的午後之夢迴中,赫然驚覺現實原來是置身於東方的古老小城鎮之中。

Open-air Cafes in Hoi An

The historical coastal town of Hoi An is only an hour away on a plane from Da Lat. The bright autumn sun shines through lanterns of all colours and the smell of traditional Chinese tea and French coffee penetrates the streets. Many old shops and houses have now been converted into open-air cafes, providing the perfect place for visitors to take a rest.

Hoi An is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Locations such as the Phouc Kien Assembly Hall, Quang Trieu Assembly Hall, Trieu Chau Assembly Hall, Qingfo Assembly Hall and Trung Hoa Assembly Hall are open to visitors. With a few tables outside, they are turned into Paris-style cafes. While the wallclinging bougainvillea may further remind people of the French capital, the lanterns overhead take them back to the Oriental old town. Hoi An is always as beautiful as a dream.


品味鴨仔蛋

談起街頭美食,又怎少得唯有越南才吃得到的補身珍品“鴨仔蛋”,大多數歐洲人都不太敢嘗試,倒是亞洲人對味道敢於冒險,老闆娘會給您敲開蛋殼加點魚露加點檸檬汁,當地人會只敲開一個小洞一口灌下去,外地人會用湯匙慢慢品嚐,裏邊的蛋白混合着一些小鴨的羽毛和骨頭,有的全熟有的半熟的口感,微微腥香可以沾些鹽巴與九層塔來吃,味道有點似半生熟的溫泉蛋,甚致有點法式生蠔的口感,只是更加濃郁而己,只能說尚未吃過的如何形容您都不會懂!

Trying Balut: An Adventure

Balut – bird embryo in the shell – is a traditional Vietnamese street food. Many people may be reluctant to try but for those who are adventurous enough, the shopkeeper will break the shell for you and season it with some fish sauce and lemon juice. Locals tend to eat it in one gulp through a hole in the shell while foreigners usually savour it slowly with a spoon. Additional seasonings such as salt and basil are also available. The egg white is mixed with some feathers and bones. It tastes partly cooked and partly half-cooked, similar to the Japanese onsen eggs. It also has a similar texture to oyster, but richer. You would only know how exactly it tastes when you have one.


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